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Cantillon Cuvee du van 98

Huge thanks to Alex for sharing this crazy rare beer at his house for Joe’s birthday extravaganza. Cork said 2004 after popping it. Poured from a 750mL bottle into a bell’s tulip.

A: Pours a hazed semi-dull golden/light-tangerine color with a surprising nice 2+ finger airy/foamy/bubby off-white head with nice retention but not a whole lot of any lacing. Either way, for the style it looks very nice.

S: The smell is really great and immediately reminiscent of Cuvee des Champions only with some age on it. Cobweb, dry dusty attic brett funk, mellowed dry old-oak tannins, and some lemony acidity with lactobacteria tartness all intermingle wonderfully. Nuancs of tart apple, pear, and other citrus fruits are all very noticeable. A subtle backing of light candy sugar and wheaty/pale grain sweetness adds some balance. A hint of minty/grassy hops from the dry hopping are also evident even with the age.

T: Again, the taste is much like I’d expect the cuvee des champions to turn into in a few years. Lots of present dry/cobweb/dusty attic funk with some cheesy barnyard hits first with lots more lemony and other citric sweet-acidity. It’s a touch sweet with twangy wheat dn sugary pale maltiness but the hops come back on the finish to intermingle with the yeasty dryness while adding a touch of bitterness… almost minty and herbal in a unique way, Nicely tart/sour with good dryness.

M: The body is on the lighter side of medium body with a very champagne-like level of backing effervescent carbonation. There’s not very much sticky-sweet coating left at this point in time with the age, but it does have a great puckering tart/sour/dry finish that is much stronger than in the new cuvee des champions. No alcohol heat anywhere and the finish is insanely refreshing.

Overall, this was a steller aged Cantillion gueuze (can’t really call it an unblended lambic with the good carbonation). I would love to have drank the bottle to myself after a couple hours but was still grateful for the sample. Very insanely drinkable stuff that doesn’t rape the palate like some others in the style. Couldn’t recommend it enough.

Served In: Tulip